Features

Setoda, a picturesque port town on the northwest corner of Ikuchijima Island, is about halfway along the Shimanami Kaido.
 
Thanks to its convenient location, retro vibe, and some popular tourist attractions, Setoda is a favorite place to break your journey between Onomichi and Imabari and an excellent day-trip destination.

Setoda once thrived as a salt production center and was once filled with the residences and warehouses of wealthy salt merchants.
 
Today, the island’s cash crop and claim to fame are its lemons. Vestiges of its trading past remain in the form of traditional buildings that have been renovated and repurposed in imaginative ways. It is one of the highlights of a visit to Shimanami.

A quick guide to Setoda

Setoda is very easy to navigate, and standing with your back to the sea after you get off the ferry, the old town is laid out in an inverted T-shape. The Shiomachi Shotengai shopping street stretches out in front.
 
Although a shadow of its former self, the once bustling street still boasts quaint cafes, shops, and eateries and leads you to the town’s leading visitor attractions, the 600-year-old Kojoji pagoda, Kosanji Temple, the Hill of Hope, and the Ikuo Hirayama Museum of Art.

Around the port itself, you will find the Suminoe Ryokan, a long-running inn next to the stylish SOIL Setoda. This development includes modern guesthouse accommodation, a cafe-restaurant, and a refurbished white-walled warehouse that now acts as an information center and hosts pop-up events.

Speed across the waves to the heart of Shimanami

Many cycle to Setoda, but you can also let the ferry from Onomichi whisk you directly to some of the region’s highlights in just 40 minutes. This is great for cyclists who don’t have time to tackle the whole 70 km of the Shimanami Kaido and for people who like their travel to be more relaxed than active.
 
About six ferries run between Setoda and Onomichi in each direction every day. It’s a lovely way to travel. Cruising through the Inland Sea is the most relaxing way to get to the heart of Shimanami. And, on a clear day, the views are gorgeous.

You are most likely to take the cute, yellow “Citrus” to make the trip, but the pride of the fleet is Cycleship Lazuli. At weekends, the Lazuli makes several return journeys a day and is equipped with special bicycle berths for cyclists and free WiFi so you can upload or livestream the beautiful journey.
 
Bicycles can be transported on the ferries. However, you can also rent them after you arrive at the Setoda Tourist Information Center, which is approximately a 10-minute walk from the ferry port and where you can pick up maps and information.

Shimanami Kaido Cycling Experience

The stretch of the Shimanami Kaido along the coast between Setoda and the impressive 1.5-km long Tatara Bridge is one of the prettiest along the 70-km bike route.

It’s an 8.5km ride, one-way, between Setoda Port and Tatara Shimanami Park (3.5km between Setoda Port and Sunset Beach), so if you are renting your bike just for the day, make sure you have time to return it by 5 pm, when the Setoda Port Tourist Information Center closes.

Sunset Beach is famous for its beautiful sunsets, but as the final ferry for Onomichi leaves just before 5 pm, for most of the year, you’ll need to consider staying overnight to enjoy one.
 
Would that be so bad, though?

Setoda renaissance

The news that the founder of Aman Resorts, Adrian Zecha, was to be involved in the restoration of a 140-year-old former home of a wealthy salt merchant, the whole region was abuzz with excitement. The resulting 22-room inn, Azumi Setoda, respects and maintains the style of the original buildings while providing a level of comfort to satisfy the discerning traveler.

Next door is the above-mentioned SOIL Setoda, which has more reasonably priced accommodation. On the ground level, the MINATOYA cafe/restaurant has huge doors that open up to the open area on the waterfront. A large traditional warehouse serves as an exhibition space, gift shop, and information center.

A new public bath facility, tastefully designed to blend with the surrounding architecture, serves guests staying at Azumi and SOIL Setoda and is also open to local residents and day-trippers. Named Yubune, after bath boats that once served tired sailors and fishermen returning to shore, retro-tiled mosaics on the walls depict the local landscape and fauna. It is the perfect place to freshen up before grabbing dinner along the Shiomachi shopping street or boarding the ferry to return to Onomichi.

The Setoda renaissance is attracting more people to visit and set up new businesses in Setoda. This area around the port town has preserved its calming and laidback atmosphere, which can be enjoyed at cafes like cyclists’ favorite Cafe Via, the laid-back Shiomachi Cafe, a host of other chilled-out spots, or just hanging out on the seawall and taking in the view.

Getting to Setoda

By bicycle

Setoda is approximately 35 km alond the Shimanami Kaido main ‘Blue Line’ route and approximately 40 km from Imabari.

By ferry

There are two ferry lines that connect Setoda directly from Honshu (Japan’s main island). The journey takes approximately 40 minutes.

From Onomichi
Setouchi Cruising operate 6 round-trip ferries per day between Onomichi Port and Setoda Port.
Click here for more details.

From Mihara
Habushosen ferries also run from Mihara Port (5-10 minutes walk from Mihara Station). The journey takes approximately 30 minutes.
Click here for more details in Japanese.