Depending on whether you start from Onomichi or Imabari, Mukaishima is either the first or last island on your journey across the Shimanami Kaido.

Mukaishima (向島)

Sipping your coffee on the Onomichi waterfront, the towering cranes that hang over the shipyards across the narrow strait are so close that you feel you could reach out and touch them. Boats plie back and forth across the 200m-300m channel, ferrying a mix of commuters, schoolkids and cyclists throughout the day.

There are several crossing points, but the most convenient for visitors is from the jetty at Onomichi Port – look for the ferry with a little cockpit shaped like a Chinese pagoda. It costs 100 yen/person and 10 yen/bicycle and as the fare is collected during the short crossing, having correct change ready is recommended (note that payment is by cash only).

Mukaishima along the Blue Line

From Onomichi, the Shimanami Blue Line runs for approximately 9 km across the north of Mukaishima Island before turning south to the Tachibana Coast and the Innoshima Bridge.

After rolling off the ferry, you will see that there are actually Blue Line markers on the road sending you in two directions (one straight ahead and one to the right). Both merge in about 200m, so feel free to take either. The route heads east when you meet the main road and continues past a mix of shops and residential areas until you hit the coast.

Heading south, on the way to the Tachibana Coast, you pass by roadside markets selling local citrus fruits, beneath the red bridge to Iwashijima, a pleasant lookout spot. As well as great views, you will find several cafes along the Tachibana Coast, making it a favorite to take a break or enjoy lunch.

From here you take the bicycle path up to the 1339m Innoshima Bridge which will take you to the next island, Innoshima.

Mukaishima Beyond the Blue Line

As well as making the approximately 20-km loop of the island, there are several interesting places to visit off the Blue Line and in the island’s interior.

Itsukushima Shrine stands on a sandy beach on the little island of Iwashijima, a short diversion from the Blue Line across the Mukaishima Bridge. Similar to Miyajima’s Itsukushima Shrine, it has a shrine gate that appears to float when the tide is in. It may not be as grand as its more famous namesake, but there is a good chance you will have the place all to yourself.

Ushio Chocolatl is a unique chocolate factory and cafe space housed in a former office building high above the Tachibana Coast. Ushio Chocolatl are known for their funky design sense and commitment to sustainable business practices, and their chocolate is delicious (and suitable for vegans too).

The observation platform, which stands next to a couple of TV transmission towers on top of 283m Mt Takamiyama, offers commanding views out to sea, over the Tachibana Coast, and of the Innoshima Bridge. Flower lovers may also like to visit the Mukaishima Orchid Center on the north side of the mountain.

Those who want to linger in the area should look into booking SUP and kayak tours from Deepwater, also located in Tachibana. Even if you don’t take to the water, the views along Mukaishima’s southern coast between Tachibana and Hishio are beautiful, and the number of seaside shrines testify to the close connection this area has long had with the sea.

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